jwg: (Moai)
2010-12-23 09:08 pm

Collapse

No, not me collapsing. I'm reading a fantastically interesting book: Collapse - How Societies Choose to Fail or Succeed by Jared Diamond. Diamond is a professor of Geography at UCLA. (He won the Pulitzer for another book: Guns, Germs and Steel which I'll read as some point)>.

In this book he writes about a number of societies that encounter a host of problems - some of which result in failure. I was drawn to it because of his analysis of Easter Island. Thus far I've read about Montana (not failed), Easter Island, Pitcairn and Henderson Islands, the Anasazi, and the Mayans - more failures to come as well as a lot of political-econmic analysis.

He takes a very scientific approach using information from many other scientists and includes his own analysis as well. He clearly expresses his opinion but allows for the situation that there are many opinions and some contradictory data so he might be wrong. He does an excellent job explaining the science involved. An example of this is where he discusses Dendrochronology by which a climate whose rainfall varies a lot over large time spans (not true for all areas) allows scientists to make a pretty valid estimate as to when a tree used in a structure was cut down as a means to date a structure.

I loved this sequence of sentences near the beginning.
"So that readers will have some advance idea where they are heading, here is how this book is organized. Its plan resembles a boa constrictor that has swallowed two very large sheep."

He talks about five factors:
• damage that people inadvertently inflict on their environment,
• climate change,
• hostile neighbors,
• decreased support by friendly neighbors,
• how the society responds to problems.
He uses this framework to discuss each place that he analyzes.

In the Montana chapter he talks about the effects of mining, deforestation, lack of rainfall and distance from markets that set the stage for a large set of problems. On the other hand the fact that it is so beautiful there has attracted a large number of wealthy people to buy land and built fancy homes (but not be residents who pay state taxes). This causes land prices to go way up so farming becomes difficult - note that here is where the estate tax comes in because when the children inherit a family farm that barely has enough income to keep alive they suddenly have to pay a large tax and have to sell the farmland for development. This community is still healthy primarily because of financial support from outside - government and the out-of-state land owners who also get houses built and use services. But the potential conflict between old-timers vs new-comers could destabilize the place. (Full disclosure: This is an overly simplistic description of his analysis.)

For Easter Island his analysis is that its collapse was due basically because the people overexploited its own resources. At the time there were no friendly neighbors or enemies and it looks like the climate didn't change so he believes those factors can be ruled out. Essentially deforestation made fishing impossible because they couldn't build canoes, the population was too large for local farming on bad soil (deforestation made it worse) to get enough food and as a result there was so much strife between the rival tribes. Essentially a massive civil war resulted in the killing of most of the people. Of course a bit later there was the hostile neighbors problem where the Peruvians kidnapped about 1/2 the population to be slave labor and later when some returned they brought smallpox.

Of course you can see the parallel to some of our near future dilemma. We are messing up our environment, the climate is changing and may well be more hostile, each country has friendly neighbors and hostile enemies. Currently we are not responding well to many of these problems. The earth is not going to be saved by friendly neighbors from nearby planets and not many people can migrate to them. So we are going to have to figure out what to do, or...
jwg: (JohnBottleLogo)
2010-12-05 08:31 pm

South America 2010 - highlights

This year we went to South America twice. In March we went to the Galapagos. And in November we went to Peru primarily to go to Machu Picchu and Easter Island. Originally the Machu Picchu visit was to be after the Galapagos trip but major rain storms in Peru in January washed out the railroad and the site was closed to visitors since there was no way to get there - and Aqua Calientes, the village at the base, was flooded too. This turned out to be a boon since the Machu Picchu trip was rescheduled to November and the opportunity to go to Easter Island arose.

These were two incredible trips - both organized by Ken McFarland - the Greek Island trip in 2007 and the Tanzania trip in 2008 were his also. In March we go to Egypt on one of his trips.

Highlights of the Galapagos were blue and red footed boobies, great frigates, land and marine iguanas, tortoises and turtles, sharks, penguins, and lots more. A land iguana )
All my LJ postings for the Galapagos trip are here.

Highlights of the Peru trip were day-of-the dead at Lima Cemeteries, churches in Lima and Cusco, Inca structures near Cusco, and just about everything about Machu Picchu - structures, overall site, history/mystery.
Machu Picchu )

Highlights of the Easter Island trip were the Moai, the carvings, the history/mystery too, the banana sled racing, the native dancing, our dancing, the overall ambiance, the flora, and the volcano crater.
Seven Moai )

My LJ postings of the Peru and Easter Island trip can be found here.

Oh yes, and don't forget the Pisco Sours!
jwg: (Moai)
2010-12-05 11:52 am

Easter Island Cemetery and Church


We visited a cemetery where almost all the graves were decked with flowers and some with local artifacts. In one of them there was a book to read - with the pages in the correct position for reading.


Inside the church there were lots of wood and some stone carvings. The cemetery was some distance from the church.

Click here for some pictures:


jwg: (Moai)
2010-12-04 11:54 pm

Dancing on Easter Island

Two kinds of dancing on Easter Island. One night we went to an entertaining native dancing show. Here are a couple of fragments of what they were doing.

Then we did our own - some English Country Dancing and a couple of Contras. We danced Easter Morn but didn't do Easter Thursday because we didn't have its music.


Several fragments of English Country Dance a fragment of a Contra
jwg: (EvilGrin)
2010-12-04 05:15 pm

Banana Sled racing on Easter Island

We lucked out in our timing when we heard that there was going to be Banana Sled racing one day while we were there. Contestants are decked out in body paint, almost no clothes, and sometimes feathers or other decor. There were men, women, and children who did it. The sleds are constructed from two stalks of a banana tree lashed together and the people slide down a long steep hill - usually holding their legs up in the air. I think this is only done several times a year; I don't think this was a major contest because there weren't a huge amount of spectators there. I took lots of pictures of course and a few movies. My camera isn't ideal for movies and at least once I had to scramble to get out of the way when a sled went significantly off course.




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Click for pics -> </a
jwg: (shadow)
2010-12-03 11:54 am

Easter Island Volcano, carvings et al.

There are three large, dormant volcanos on Easter Island plus several smaller ones. This one, Rana Koa, was the only one we got to see the inside of. It is a verdant spot with a lake. Some reeds - origin South America (same as are found in Lake Titicaca) - grow here and were used to make boats of varying sizes.




In the '50s and somewhat later a supply ship came to Easter Island once a year and that was the only regularly scheduled method for transport of people and goods. Now it comes once a month. This ship, Samson, was there being unloaded the whole time we were there. There is no good dock or harbor so the unloading was done onto small craft. The ship used to take away lots of wool since there were large herds of sheep on the island.

When Thor Heyerdahl went in 1955 he had to hire his own ship since he didn't to have to stay a whole year in case there wasn't much to do (that wasn't a problem of course).

Now there are 1-3 flights a day, mostly from Santiago but some from Tahiti. At the airport there was a model of an expanded facility and I suppose there will be more flights when it is built.

In addition to the large statues there is a lot of craftswork both ancient and new. Wood carvings, carvings on stone, and many artifacts found in caves - some secretly controlled by families. In Heyerdahl's book, Aku-Aku, he describes receiving lots of these artifacts and how he got to explore some caves.

Click here for some pictures of
carvings, caves, and sculptures ->
jwg: (Moai)
2010-12-02 07:08 pm

Some more Moai at Easter Island

As we went to various places on Easter Island we saw various collections of Moia, some standing up and some not in very good shape. There were some in the quarry where they are made that were works in progress. I read in Aku Aku, Thor Heyerdahl's book about his trip that some of the local made some new ones using what they thought were the tools that were used. They also raised them with long wooden levers, placing rocks underneath as they got higher which is thought how they were originally done. Nobody is very sure how they were moved to their place; they were all built at the same quarry on the side of one of volcanos. The red stone TopHats came from a different quarry.

Here's one that is partially carved.



Click for pics in Flickr->

To help protect these artifacts there were some amusing signs here and there.

Click for pics in Flickr->
jwg: (Moai)
2010-12-01 08:56 pm

Off to Easter Island

Easter Island is in the Pacific Ocean in the middle of nowhere. It is 2,300 miles from South America, 2,640 to Tahiti and 1,289 miles from Pitcairn Island, the nearest place. People from Peru and people from Polynesia migrated to it. There is lots of controversy among archeologists and historians as to who was really there first and who constructed and who destroyed the statues. Thor Heyerdahl was convinced that it was the Peruvians who constructed the statues because there was little evidence that Polynesians did stone construction and the Incas and other Peruvians were serious stone artisans, On the other had the concept of family and godlike images was more Polynesian. The natives had a written language with symbolic items but no-one has figured out how to read it. What a fascinating history! It is hard to imagine people in the 3rd to 10th centuries venturing such long distances and discovering and settling on this small island of about 64 square miles in size. And then they built over one thousand colossal statues which had to be moved from the quarry to their places by means not yet understood.

It is called Rapa Nui by the natives, Isla de Pascua by the Spaniards - it was named Easter Island by James Cook who "discovered it" on Easter Sunday in 1722. A late Peruvian invasion which brought smallpox and took away slaves was the main cause of loss of population. It is not a very hospitable place for agriculture and the Rapa Nuins cut down most of the trees (probably trying to turn it into farmland) which made it difficult to build new sea-going canoes which among other things were needed for fishing.

These were the first Moai that we saw:



Another view of a few of them and some more current additions.



Click here for Flickr Set ->
jwg: (MachuPicchu)
2010-11-14 03:50 pm

Home from South America

We're back from a most fabulous trip to Peru and Chile. It was even better than I expected and my expectations were high. I need to work on pictures by selecting a few from the ~1600 I took for some detailed postings but here is a quick summary

- In Lima we toured several cemeteries which were jam packed with people honoring the graves and enjoying themselves on the Day of the Dead and some some historical buildings in the center of town.

- In Cusco and its surrounding area we visited some of the best of the Spanish colonial architecture and some Inca structures.

- In Machu Picchu we spent many hours wandering about the ruins and climbing to the Sun Gate which is where hikers on the Inca Trail get their first view.

- On Easter Island we saw many many Moia including some under construction and some in bad shape.

- We learned a lot about Inca and Rapa Nui history and culture from our two well informed and personable guides.

I've wanted to go to Machu Picchu for a very long time. We were supposed to go in March but heavy rains washed out the railroad so this was the postponed trip which was augmented by a trip to Easter Island. We probably got better weather in Machu Picchu now than in March. The weather was quite good. It was cloudy in Lima (it apparently always is) and there were occasional rain showers elsewhere but they all occurred at night or when we were in a bus traveling to another spot.

Cusco is at 11,300 ft and a bit higher nearby which presented a bit of a challenge to many of us; but everyone did OK, with struggling up stairways and lots of fast pulse rates. Sleeping the first night in Cusco was a challenge.